Cool pools

Choupana Hills Resort & Spa rests on a slope high above Funchal.

Sam Lewis unpacks her tan to bring you the coolest pools in the hottest locations - this issue she checks out Madeira

Madeira falls into the category of best-kept secrets. It’s not fashionable – in fact, it’s never been fashionable – but has escaped the ravages of orange-tan tourism and is blessed with some of the most breathtaking scenery in southern Europe.

Just think about the location – 380 miles west of Morocco and 260 miles north of the Canaries, but without the hassles associated with either. Apart from a few ring-fenced package tour ghettos, Madeira shapes up very nicely as an island for discreet affairs and away-from-it-all detox. Which helps explain why I checked into two gorgeous hotels on the island’s south coast.

The airport is 16km outside the capital of Funchal and, given the island’s relentlessly mountainous terrain, I was delighted my first ride was the BMW X5.

I love this machine. The X5 is a unique combination of driving enthusiast’s dream, luxury saloon and 4x4 all in the same package. And it’s this flexibility that elevates it above competitors like the Land Rover Freelander, the Toyota Landcruiser, the Lexus RX 300 and even the exalted Range Rover. Yes, it’s that good and made light work of the dizzy climb to my first destination.

Choupana Hills Resort & Spa
Designed by French architects Michel de Camaret and Didier Lefort, Choupana Hills Resort & Spa displays a seamless blend of Asian and African influences. This quite extraordinary creation is built on concrete pillars and comprises 34 independent bungalow-style units in wood and stone, surrounded by sumptuous gardens and two larger buildings in which spa and restaurant recline.

But like so much of Madeira, Choupana Hills raison d’être comes down to peace and vista. The hotel rests on a slope high above Funchal and boasts endless and quite staggering views of both city and the wild Atlantic coast.

Choupana Hills Resort & Spa, Travessa do Largo da Choupana, 9060-348 Funchal, Madeira, Portugal

Choupana Hills’ manager Philippe Moreau made me feel so at home it took heavy-duty persuasion to move on. But the midnight coastal drive west was well worth the effort. Day-to-day the X5 is a great car to live with. Even over rugged terrain it delivers a comfortable, hassle-free drive with a fuss-free dash and user friendly switchgear.

BMW MX5 - a perfect softroader for Madeira's dizzy heights.

On the safety side there’s twin front airbags and side airbags, traction control and anti-lock brakes, and all cars have ‘hill descent control’ to stop the car sliding down steep hills. A real asset in Madeira.

Estalagem da Ponta do Sol
The tiny village of Ponta do Sol nestles high in the Madeiran hills. Designed by Andre Diogo, Estalagem lies just outside the village and overlooks banana plantations and, as ever in Madeira, the ocean.

The architecture is sophisticated but first impressions are of simplicity and elegance. An old agricultural estate has been miraculously transformed into a contemporary oasis of calm and surprise, characterised by clean lines and the often vertiginous views of village and ocean.

The architect’s achievement has been to pull together the contrasts of landscape, ancient farm buildings and modern materials to create a luxurious and wholly integrated living space.

Two o’clock in the morning, listening to the muffled pull of the shingle far below, watching the lights of the trawlers out on the horizon. Interested?

Estalgem da Ponta do Sol, Quinta da Rochinha 9360, Ponta do Sol, Madeira, Portugal

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